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Savoir & Faire: Weaving expertise in textiles and chemistry

Savoir & Faire: Weaving expertise in textiles and chemistry

At Chargeurs PCC, our dedication to textiles and chemistry drives us to continually innovate and perfect the craft of interlining. Understanding the various techniques and technologies behind our interlinings is crucial for anyone looking to enhance their garment designs. From the complex constructions of knitted, woven and non-woven fabrics to advanced coating processes for optimum fusion, each step is essential in creating high-quality interlinings. Join us as we explore the different types of interlinings, the coating technologies, and the processes involved in making effective interlinings.

Types of Interlinings



Woven Interlinings

Woven interlinings are created by interlacing two sets of yarns—the warp (lengthwise) and the weft (crosswise)—at right angles. This traditional method ensures durability and stability, making them ideal for structured garments like jackets and shirts. Key characteristics include:

  • Durability: Provides robust support and structure.
  • Stability: Maintains shape over time, even with frequent wear.

 


Non-Woven Interlinings

Non-woven interlinings are made by bonding fibers together using heat, chemicals, or mechanical processes, rather than weaving or knitting. This method allows for a range of properties such as flexibility, strength, and breathability. Types include:

  • Flexibility: Ideal for lightweight and delicate fabrics.
  • Versatility: Suitable for various applications such as reinforcement cut-outs and waistbands.

 


Knitted Interlinings

Knitted interlinings are produced by interlooping yarns, creating a stretchy and flexible fabric. These are perfect for garments requiring elasticity, such as knitwear. Key features include:

  • Elasticity: Provides excellent stretch and recovery for weft inserted fabrics.
  • Comfort: Enhances the fit and comfort of garments.

 

 

Weft inserted Technology
Warp knitting with weft-inserted technology introduces supplementary yarn across the weft direction of the fabric, allowing for enhanced design possibilities and improved fabric characteristics. Key characteristics include:

  • Versatility: Enables the creation of diverse patterns and textures.
  • Enhanced Fabric Quality:  Contributes to producing interlinings with unique qualities and superior performance features. This includes high stability and control in warp knitting, remarkable resilience and recovery in the weft direction, and overall high breathability for the fabric.

 

Hair Interlinings
Hair interlinings are mostly made from natural fibers like horsehair, providing stiffness and support. These are commonly used in high-end tailoring for chest pieces and lapels. Key characteristics include:

  • Structure: Offers superior support and shape retention.
  • Luxury: Adds a superior touch to tailored garments.



Coating Technologies

Coating technologies are vital in enhancing the functionality of interlinings. Different coating methods are used to apply adhesives, optimizing bonding based on the specific fabric type. Key technologies include:

  • Powder Coating: Uses finely ground powder adhesives, providing strong adhesion.
  • Paste Coating: Involves spreading a paste-like adhesive onto the fabric surface.
  • Powder and Paste Combination: Combines both powder and paste methods to achieve specific adhesive characteristics and performance.
  • Global Molecular Point (GMP) Process: A coating with superior adhesion suitable for various applications, ensuring no strike-through or back transfer. This process is exclusively patented for Chargeurs PCC, offering enhanced durability and performance.

Fusing Process

Fusing, or thermal bonding, involves bonding the interlining to the textile using specific conditions of temperature, time, and pressure. This method is crucial for ensuring the interlining's effectiveness and durability. 

The key steps include:

  1. Preparation: Aligning the interlining warp with the textile warp, ensuring both surfaces are clean and smooth.
  2. Fusing: Applying heat and pressure through the chosen fusing method 
  3. Cooling: Allowing sufficient cooling time to ensure a strong, durable bond.

Different ways to achieve fusing include:

  • Flat Bed Pressing: Uses a heated flat press to apply uniform pressure and heat, ensuring a strong bond.
  • Roller Pressing: Involves passing fabric and interlining through heated pressure-regulated cylinders on a belt, providing uniform and effective bonding.

The fusing process is essential for the interlining to be effective. It involves constant control of temperature, pressure, and time. This ensures complete adhesion without damaging the fabric. 

With 21 testing labs worldwide, Chargeurs PCC offers clients comprehensive fabric testing and interlining selection. Clients can send their fabrics to any of our labs around the world for customized testing. Our extensive testing ensures compatibility, durability, and optimal performance, providing peace of mind and guaranteeing superior garment quality. 

 At Chargeurs PCC, our expertise in textiles and chemistry enables us to produce interlinings that meet the highest standards of quality and performance. By understanding the various construction methods and coating technologies, we ensure that our interlinings provide the perfect balance of structure, flexibility, and durability. 

Explore our extensive range of interlinings and discover how our advanced technologies can elevate your garment designs.

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